Working on Section #1 - Set Up

It is time to get to work on the modules again.  First thing I have to do is to get #1 set up.

 It has been sitting in the corner like a big pink lump.  I want to set it up and begin the trackwork.

 The leg extensions slide on easily. 

 I rest the module on its side while the legs go on, and then I tilt it up and set it on the spare legs.

 The spare leg is held in place with very strong pinch clamps.  It is pretty stable.

The pier takes its place on the module.  Next step is to put Module 2 up and get the track started.

Vacation Contruction

I took today off so that Marie and I could do new baby stuff and so my testicles could heal some more.  So I've been taking it easy today.  Should have been healed up by now.  Let's go to the basement!

Where did I leave off?  I've been working on a top secret project for Dr. Ben's so I haven't worked on construction lately.  Oh yes!  I need to put the top layer on Section 1.  Ok, let's get to work.

We've cut the outside supports and now we need to cut the three inside supports.  These will be a little more tricky.

First we'll lay out the radials with a Sharpee marker and a yard stick.  This is where the supports will go, but they won't go the full length of the section since the front is sloped and may have rock formations.

This is how the supports will look, although they will vary a bit.  After I started cutting I did ad a back support to the pieces and may cut them out later if they are in the way.

Using scrap luan plywood I draw out each piece and cut it with a jig saw.

Here are the three new pieces.  The square cut out is where the train goes and the large area is where the DCC systems will go.

The will have to rest flat on the top board, so we'll need to cut some gaps in the foam.

Using the hot wire cutter we'll cut out the gaps.

The holes are cut wide enough so that the support and a piece of quarter round can fit.  The quarter round piece will help hold the support upright and reinforce it.

Next I draw the outline of the foam with a marker so that I don't put glue where we don't need it.

Then we lather on the wood glue.

Ouch!  Blurry!  Sorry about that.  The pain meds are still working...  Pretend you see small paint cans and wood blocks weighing down the foam so that it sticks to the glue.

I went upstairs and got a drink of water and feel a little better.  We're back in focus.  I put a light coat of white paint on one side of each of the supports and let them dry.  The reason I painted them is that they will be in an area with no light and the white makes a good light reflector.

While the paint is drying I cut out the places where the track alignment blocks will go.  This was done with the hot knife.

I did all three.

Time for a second coat.  The paint job is sloppy, but it really doesn't matter.  Only I will see it.

That's it for now.  I may come back and work on it later, but for now I have to go pick up my daughter.

Working on Section #4 - Foam and Elevated Platform

I've had a little time today to play, so I made the best of it.  I want to get the track supporting parts of Section #4 which has the mill and the waterfalls.

First I cut a 3/4" foam slab for the top of the section, then marked and arch where the lower level trackage will go.

The forman was being her usualy self today.

Here you can see the semi circle where the lower level track will be.  Using a #5 right hand turnout I marked where the track will go.  I also marked the tunnel opening.  Everything that is not foam will be a work space and room for the DCC system.

Here you can see the #5 turnout.  This might become a #4 turnout as it is a bit too close to the edge.  Using some flex track I made sure the curve that leaves the table would work well.

There will be a tunnel portal and a small section of track here so that if I add a yard or expand the layout, there will be a place to connect it.

See?  Just a little too close.  Normally I like 4" of tangent track at a connection between sections.

Before I install the upper deck I wanted to see how the mill was going to fit.  Its a bit tight with the lower level trackage below.

The mill is also too low.  We'll have to boost it up.

It will look great on the layout, though it is a bit too close to the aisl.  One of its purposes is to hide the joint between the two sections.

When I put it on a slabl of 2" foam it comes up to the right height.

I hope it is not too wide.  This is not a structure I want to scratchbuild as my June deadline is approaching rapidly and a baby is going to show up in April.

Speaking of too wide.

The next step is to cut a luan upper deck.  Just like other patterns I used the previous section to mark this one.  I went ahead and put in the waffle marks, but I'm not sure that I'll remove them.

Nice fit.  Now we'll cut away everything that doesn't look like a layout.  Mostly about 3-4" on the front.

Next I'll make some side boards to lift the upper deck.  The square is a hole for the lower level train and the circles are just for lightweighting.

Here is the right side board.

Here is the left side board.  I'll need to cut boards for the middle as well.  But we'll do that tomorrow.

I put the upper deck on the work table and will make three more risers tomorrow.  A stop by Home Depot tomorrow will get me a stick of quarter round which I'll need to help fasten the sides to the upper deck. 

Meanwhile, I'll just enjoy the pretty wood!

Goodnight!

Boxcar Blues

Ok, so maybe there is a reason I get Accurail (Inaccurail) cars so cheap! 

 

Let's start by using some glue!

 

First I want to mount some of the clamping pads.  Here is one drying.

Bob's right.  The bright color is easily seen from underneath the layout where there is no light.  It also gives a good contact point for the clamp and can be replaced if needed.

Here is the book full of pier pictures.

I like the loose leaf notebooks so I can take the pictures out.  Each photo is in a plastic sleeve to protect it.  I've also been know to put samples of the weathering materials on the back of the photos and slide them back in the sleeve for reference later.

The Monon gondola needs to go back on the shelf so that I can work on the L&N boxcar tonight, so I'll take a sticky note and write on it the next steps.  This way I don't forget and can match up like paint jobs when I fire up the airbrush this weekend.  Flat black, rust and oxide red.

I'm a fan of the L&N, but this kit has some really bad flash on the plastic.

All of the kit parts are here.  The brake wheels look terrible and if I can find a spare they will go in the trash.  Horn hook couplers are tossed as well.  I have friends with billions of horn hooks.  They just can't make themselves throw them away for some reason.  The wheels (plastic) went into a drawer.

I cleaned up the running boards and mounted them.  They aren't really level so I pressed down on the flat workbench to straighten them out.  My glue stand is missing so I'll have to build another.  Actually I could use a couple of them.

Next we'll work on the frame.  I'd like to run this car with the doors open so that you can see the cotton inside.  So we'll paint the floor area by the door.

 

 

The Dr. Ben's Aged Driftwood is in reach so I'll use that.  One coat goes on easy.  

Next I'll test fit the weights.  The pins are much smaller than the mounting holes!

To keep the weights from banging around I put some silicone bathtub caulk down and will press the weights into the calk.

A quick check of the scale and the NMRA RP guidelines shows the car will be just a bit heavy when I add the metal wheels, which is ok for a small train.  

Next we'll trim and mount the doors and the door guides.  This step goes easy.  I left the doors loose in case I ever want to shut them.  This is a single sheathed boxcar with roof walks and a high brake wheel.  

 

 

The underframe is test fit into the body and we are ready for painting.  I put the steel wheels in the box and sealed it up for the night.

Again I made a note to myself about the paint colors.  That's it for tonight!