Scott Perry's portable sectional layout designed for benchwork, scenery and trackwork skill development.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
#018 04 Tybee Pier - The Nuts & Bolts of Nuts & Bolts
Here, live in the Dixie Central Blog, two modeling geniuses explain the fine art of NBW castings...which I've got to mount hundreds of very soon.
From the legendary Jack Burgess, MMR
Regarding nut, bolt & washer castings
Plastic ones are much better than metal for most applications (metal castings are much more expensive and more difficult to bond in place.) I generally use Grandt Line N-B-W casting since they have such a large selection of sizes and washer types. (Note that wood trestles generally use
those with large washers.) However, Grandt's dies are getting worn out for some sizes and the resulting parts are sometimes mismatched. Some of the smallest HO N-B-W castings should work for N scale size a 1" nut in HO would represent a 2" nut in N scale.
Some of my tips for using them on wood trestles:
Stain the wood and assemble all of the bents first and then drill the holes.
It is much faster to use a drill press to drill the holes...while I have a precision drill press, Micro-Mark and Dremel ones should work since you are drilling into wood.
Drill all of the way through the wood; you need to represent the bolt head and washer on one side and the nut and washer on the other.
Of course, paint the castings while still on the sprue. The prototype bolts and hardware I've seen start out a dark brown/black and eventually start picking up rust. Air brush a couple packages of castings a brown/black color and then go back and add a very light dusting of rust to some of the sprues.
Measure the sprue shaft diameter and use a drill one size larger. This will
make it easier to insert the casting into the hole.
Cut the sprue on the casting so that the sprue is just short of 1/2 the thickness of the wood you are inserting them into. You can cut all of the castings off of the sprue at the same time if you are careful and don't let them shatter. This makes the work go much faster.
Put a spot of regular white glue on a scrap of paper/wood/styrene, pick up a casting with tweezers by the shaft, dap the end of the casting into the white glue, and insert the shaft in the hole. Once started, push the casting the rest of the way into the hole with the side of the tweezers. The white glue doesn't actually stick to the styrene but fills the hole enough so that the casting won't come out accidentally.
Repeat...repeat....repeat....etc.
One the modelers in my club scratched a 30 inch long trestle on a 33" dia curve Double track. He claimed the only pieces of wood all the same length were the ties. 1500 pieces or so. He told me later that putting the NBW's in it weakened the structure. All redwood.
If the timber sizes were prototype and he wasn't drilling oversize holes, there shouldn't have been any weakening of the structure...the prototype timbers had holes drilled in them! Assuming he was using prototypically-sized timbers, I suspect that the problem was actually the choice of wood since redwood is not a strong wood but really a softwood. The prototype (in the West) tended to use Douglas Fir which, although not classified as a hardwood, is a very strong wood, good for house building, freight cars, etc.
Note that not all bridges used bolts and nuts for every joint. Many bridges, especially driven pile bridges, used spikes (not railroad spikes but extremely large-diameter "nails") rather than bolts and nuts for attaching the sway bracing. So, the lack of N-B-W castings should not automatically result in lost points for the Prototype score. However, you those cases, you should represent the head of the spikes. The problem is that, except for very large wood trestles, there isn't a lot of places to gain points for Detail. But there are also other details that can typically be added. For
example, most bridges use multiple stringers in pairs and those stringers should have an air gap between them. These stringers would therefore be bolted together with special large washers between the stringers to provide that air gap. The washers I have from YV bridges are in an "hourglass" shape and are 4" in diameter on the ends, 1.5" in diameter in the middle, and 4" "thick". Larger trestles also need fire protection items such as drums of sand to extinguish fires. If running coal, the tops of the bents might need to be protected from dropped cinders with tin sheets.
Jack Burgess, MMR
AP Chairman, PacificCoast Region
And from Martin Pequod…
Pretty much the same way that I apply nbw's although a few variations and additonal tips.
When you're cutting the "bolt" free from the sprue, cut at an angle to put a bevel on the
tip -- makes them a little easier to insert into the hole.
Tichy makes a decent selction of nbw's and rivets, in a rust-brown which looks pretty decent in many uses with just some stain on them. Been buying them as much as Grandt line now for that very reason.
I prefer ACC over white glue for just about all materials; having some nbw's magically some back out at the most inconvenient time can be truly irritating.
Plastic vs. metal; plastic is far cheaper, but sometimes the brass parts are better particualrly if soldering things together, and sometimes I've used brass ones for their strength.
Small variable speed drill press is a tool worth investing in and beats a day with a pin vise for this and lots of other chores.
Name: The Dixie Central Railroad Scale: HO 1:87 Gauge: Standard 4' 8 1/2" Dimensions: 8' x 8' circular with 3' diameter center pit, 40" high to base, 43 sq ft layout top Prototype: Freelanced, based on Southern Theme: 1940's cotton and textile hauling Railroad's Purpose: Move cotton from the fields through finished textile stages Layout Purpose: Skill building in the areas of scenery and construction. Modular concept that allows layout to be movable for train shows and for teaching purposes. Location: East Georgia Era: 1940's Style: Twice around, pit design Mainline Run: 33' long main line Min Radius: 22" min radius Min Turnout: #5 Ruling Grade: 2.8% Track Saturation: tbd Design Parameters: Portable, one man set up, lightweight, durable. Minimize hidden track, two track joints per module side. Minimize tangent track, lightweight (portable) construction techniques. Benchwork: Lightweight waffle style based on Sipping and Switching Society modules. Foam scenery base Scenery: four seasons represented, each module being a different season Control: Digitrax DCC or equivalent Operation: one man, center pit control for home use. Two train, 5 operators for show or open space operating. Car card and waybill for movement. TT/TO for trains. Track: Walthers code 83, all turnouts manual throw for realism and more complex operations. Other: Waterways removable for "off layout construction", modular scenery system
Materials Used in Construction
Luan Plywood - 4x8 sheets (5) $8.94 each - $47.82 Drawing Print Out on Plotter (1) - $22.25 (refunded) Table Leg Sets (2) - $44.97 Steam Locomotive w/DCC & Sound (1) - $262.00 CofG Box Car (1) - $13.00 Masonite 2'x4' sheet (1) - $5.06 Corner Round Trim 6 feet (1) - $3.84 Box 1 1/4" drywall screws (1) - $4.00 Wood Glue Tight Bond (1) - $2.78 Liquid Nails Heavy Duty (1) - $2.26 Structures and cars from Steve (9) - $50.00 Boxcar Seaboard - $29.67 Palm Sander (1) - $29.97 Glue (2) - $5.84 Table Leg Sets (2) - $47 Pipe, caps, threaded rod, nuts, washers - $9.92 1 1/4" drywall screws - $2 2" drywall screws - $3 Pipe, caps, feet for legs - $10.63 Extruded foam insul 4'x8'x2" (4) - $113.42 ME Track code 83 weathered 3' (12) - $64.50 Boxcar - Used Seaboard 19555 (1) - $4.47 Hopper - Southern 2 bay #104500 (1) -$24.00 Walthers Code 83 #5 LH Turnout (1) - $21.25 Walthers Code 83 #6.5 Curved LH Turnout (1)-$32.08 Two Bay GM&O WE Hopper (1) - $5.29 Sanding belts (2) - $8.54 2'x4' Hardboard Sand Ply - (2) - $17.46 2'x4' Masonite 1/8" - (1) $4.40 HO cork roadbed case (1) - $25.95 Digitrax Super Empire Builder Set (1) $274.95 1/4" 4x8 Sandply Plywood (1) - $18.99 1/8" 4x8 Masonite (1) - $6.75 Aerosol paint flat black (1) - $2.99 L&N Drop End Gondola (1) - $11.34 Southern Drop End Gondola (1) - $10.53 Car Weights Pack (2) - $9.00 1/8"x1/8" Basswood for pier (11) - $9.21 1/8" dowels for pier (25) - $9.10 Boxcar Southern 27257 (1) $8.00 Flat Southern 116056 (1) $8.00 Flat L&N 24239 (1) $8.00 Tank GATX MA 32316 (1) $8.00 Tank GATX 16101 (1) $8.00 Misc small structures (5) - $20.00 Pier Lumber bundle (1) - $12.50 Boxcar GA Railroad (1) - $8.00 Caboose Southern (1) - $8.00 Boxcar Cotton Belt (1) - $6.00 Kadee 33" Wheels (12) - $7.25
--------------------------------------------------- Project Total $1,353.23 Budget $1,500
Construction Time
Layout Design - 8 hours Operation Plan - 1 hour Shopping for Lumber - 1.5 hours Construction Bases - 3 hours Construction Bases and Sec #1 - 3 hours Base Inner Radius - .5 hours Operations Design - 2 hours Complete Section One - 1 hour Trackwork Study - 1 hour Build Section 2,3,4 - 2.5 hours Build Section 2,3,4 - 3 hours Saw Sections - 1 hour 12-13-09 Section 3 - 30 mins Shopping and structures - 1.5 hours Complete sections (Done!) - 1 hour Remove clamps and check - 30 mins 12-20-09 Purchase leg material - 40 mins 12-20-09 Leg assembly S1 - 1 hour 12-20-09 Research - 1 hour 12-21-09 Leg final assmbly - 2 hours 12-22-09 Buy foam sheets - 1 hour 12-23-09 Visit hobby shop - 1 hour 12-24-09 Visit hobby shop - 1 hour 12-25-09 Clean up shop - 2 hours 12-27-09 Trip to hobby shop 1 hour 12-27-09 Elevation Corrections on drawing - 1 hour 12-27-09 Sanding section 3 - 45 minutes 12-29-09 Sanding completed - 2 hours 12-30-09 Assemble and foam Section 3 - 4 hours 12-31-09 Clean up shop and organize 4 hours 01-01-10 Trip to Home Depot & work 1 hour 01-02-10 Foam cutting and draw track cl - 3 hours 01-08-10 Pier construction -1.5 hours 01-09-10 Pier drawings - 1 hour 01-10-10 Pier assembly - 5 hours 01-11-10 Pier assm, rolling stock work - 3 hours 01-13-10 Foam cutting - 1.5 hours 01-16-10 Working on Pier - 4 hours 01-17-10 Working on Pier - 5 hours 01-19-08 Working on Pier - 1.5 hours 01-20-10 Working on Pier - 1 hour 01-21-10 Working on Pier - 1 hour 01-22-10 Working on Pier - 30 minutes 01-23-10 Working on Pier - 2 hours 01-24-10 Working on Pier - 3 hours 01-29-10 Working on Pier - 2 hours 01-30-10 Benchwork & Rolling Stock - 3 hours 02-07-10 Benchwork Sec 4 - 2 hours ----------------------------------------------------------------- Total Hours: 92 hours
* Blog time is NOT included but taking and processing photos is included.
Tools Used
Sabre (Jig) Saw Sanding Sponges Measuring Tape Pen - Gel Marker Speed Square Extension Cord Heavy Duty Table Saw (use high quality!) Screw Gun/Drill Countersink Bit C-Clamps (8) 6" opening Digital Camera Chop (Miter) Saw 3 x 8 Work Table Hand saw Safety glasses Table Saw Push Stick Caulking Gun Gap Gauge (hand made) Bar Clamps ( I didn't have any but they would have been handy on the radius installation) Palm Sander - Electric Belt Sander Large Rasp for Foam Radius Drawing Tool (I don't have) 48" metal rule 36" metal rule 48" drywall square 16" metal rule 24" metal square rule Rolling tool tray Radius Tool (for turntable) Serrated edge knife Spackling Blade 6" (Cutting foam) Pliers Utility knife and blades Hobby Knife Old saw blade Plastic tray Metal condiment cup #8 Paint Brush Small clamps (6) Popsicle Sticks Northwest Shortline Chopper Chop Saw - Harbor Freight Scale People in HO - Measuring Curved Tip Tweezers (Sharp) Round Toothpicks
I've been a model railroader all my life and never remember not having trains. I started out with an N-scale layout when I was five, moved in to HO until I was 30, switched to S scale for another few years, then to On30, HO and then On30 again!
Exciting coverage of the On30 Okefenokee Swamp Railroad, a model train layout constructed in On30. This unusual layout is based on the prototype Hebard Cypress Company and the Waycross & Southern Railroad that occupied this large Georgia swamp in the 1920's.
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