Scott Perry's portable sectional layout designed for benchwork, scenery and trackwork skill development.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Not as Easy as it Looks
The round waffle construction is not as easy as the square sections I've built before, that's for sure. I've got a lot of learning left on round sections. I've been corrected in that I've called these modules, but the module people say that since they only connect with each other in a certain way, this is a sectional layout. So they will be sections from now on.
I cut out Section #3 with no issues. They get quicker as you go, but I've noticed that I've gotten a little sloppy. The cut outs aren't critical, but if you move the saw too fast you get an abundance of splintering. I'll try to slow down.
Here is Section #4 with the radii trimmed and ready to work on the cut outs. The pile of odd shaped cut outs on the floor worries me as I don't know what I'm going to do with them. I hate to waste wood.
Here are all four sections in the round. I stood in the pit and I have PLENTY of room. That makes me feel good as I was a bit worried about it. Still a little worried about getting in and out of the hole. The layout is smaller than it seems on the drawing.
Using a 1" x 3" plywood board cut to 29 1/2" I installed the first side plate. DO NOT USE PLYWOOD. This is a job for a real board. I had a lot of problems with the construction because of the plys splitting.
I glued and screwed the board onto the section frame with 1 1/4" drywall screws, the holes pre-drilled and countersunk.
I decided to make a tool list for the blog. Here are a few items I'm using. You will need plenty of 6" C-clamps!
Section side plate #2 is now in place. These boards are heavy and the frame must be handled with care to keep from splinting the wood.
Using the table saw I ripped one 4' x 4' panel down to 3" strips. My saw is an older Delta saw and it is underpowered and very cheap. Waffle construction requires a lot of precision and I really need to use another saw. If I can't make this module work I may go over to Bob's and see if he'll help me with the cutting. I'm trying not to get any help since this is an A/P project layout, but if I don't have the saw or the money/space for a better one, then I'll have to get some assistance. Its not that I don't know how to cut wood!
I'm big on making gadgets to help me with my work. This little spacer is one luan board thickness (3/16") with a stop on the back. I'll use this for positioning the slats as I install them so they aren't too close to the edge.
Here you can see the gauge in use.
I cut three 29 1/2" slats and began to install them. Using ample glue each was place along the ray line and reinforced with small square blocks. I checked the 90 degree angle with a speed square.
The blocks were just small scraps, but normally I use corner round for this. It has the advantage of being smaller and curved so that it adds less weight.
My saw's inaccuracy shows in that I don't get 100% contact all along the slat. This is not good. I'm going to have to use more glue.
Here are all the slats in place. The wavey-ness caused by the saw shows on the tops of the board. I'll keep working with this one and see how it goes, but I'll probably re-build it.
LESSON: IF IT IS NOT WORKING - THROW IT AWAY AND START OVER. IT IS BETTER TO DO THIS THAN TO PUT UP WITH SOMETHING YOU KNOW WILL DRIVE YOU CRAZY OVER THE LONG HAUL.
Next I started installing the smaller cross slats. The CAD dimensions didn't come out exactly as planned, so each is having to be cut to order. Not sure how that happened.
Here is Section #1 with all the interior slats. The glue is still wet and it is a bit flimsy.
A close up of the inside radius.
I cut a long 3" board out of an 8' sheet of luan. This will be the outer radius slat. The board is very flexible. I glued, countersunk and screwed one side in with three 1 1/4" drywall screws.
Then I applied glue to the base all the way around the radius and on each of the slats. Using C-clamps I clamped the board down tight and glued/countersunk/screwed the other side to the board. This went very easy and made a beatiful curve! Looking great!
CRAP! I found out the hard way that luan will not easily curve to a 1.5' radius. I found this out by snapping the board in half and taking two splinters to my chin. BANG!
We'll stop here tonight until I can find a way to make the inner radius board. Ideas are welcome!
This blade was brand new. I think it is the fence that is giving me trouble. The saw is made of very light aluminum and has no weight for stability, which is another issue. Think I'll have a buddy of mine rip them on his 1,000 lb precision saw. Its great to have model train friends!
Name: The Dixie Central Railroad Scale: HO 1:87 Gauge: Standard 4' 8 1/2" Dimensions: 8' x 8' circular with 3' diameter center pit, 40" high to base, 43 sq ft layout top Prototype: Freelanced, based on Southern Theme: 1940's cotton and textile hauling Railroad's Purpose: Move cotton from the fields through finished textile stages Layout Purpose: Skill building in the areas of scenery and construction. Modular concept that allows layout to be movable for train shows and for teaching purposes. Location: East Georgia Era: 1940's Style: Twice around, pit design Mainline Run: 33' long main line Min Radius: 22" min radius Min Turnout: #5 Ruling Grade: 2.8% Track Saturation: tbd Design Parameters: Portable, one man set up, lightweight, durable. Minimize hidden track, two track joints per module side. Minimize tangent track, lightweight (portable) construction techniques. Benchwork: Lightweight waffle style based on Sipping and Switching Society modules. Foam scenery base Scenery: four seasons represented, each module being a different season Control: Digitrax DCC or equivalent Operation: one man, center pit control for home use. Two train, 5 operators for show or open space operating. Car card and waybill for movement. TT/TO for trains. Track: Walthers code 83, all turnouts manual throw for realism and more complex operations. Other: Waterways removable for "off layout construction", modular scenery system
Materials Used in Construction
Luan Plywood - 4x8 sheets (5) $8.94 each - $47.82 Drawing Print Out on Plotter (1) - $22.25 (refunded) Table Leg Sets (2) - $44.97 Steam Locomotive w/DCC & Sound (1) - $262.00 CofG Box Car (1) - $13.00 Masonite 2'x4' sheet (1) - $5.06 Corner Round Trim 6 feet (1) - $3.84 Box 1 1/4" drywall screws (1) - $4.00 Wood Glue Tight Bond (1) - $2.78 Liquid Nails Heavy Duty (1) - $2.26 Structures and cars from Steve (9) - $50.00 Boxcar Seaboard - $29.67 Palm Sander (1) - $29.97 Glue (2) - $5.84 Table Leg Sets (2) - $47 Pipe, caps, threaded rod, nuts, washers - $9.92 1 1/4" drywall screws - $2 2" drywall screws - $3 Pipe, caps, feet for legs - $10.63 Extruded foam insul 4'x8'x2" (4) - $113.42 ME Track code 83 weathered 3' (12) - $64.50 Boxcar - Used Seaboard 19555 (1) - $4.47 Hopper - Southern 2 bay #104500 (1) -$24.00 Walthers Code 83 #5 LH Turnout (1) - $21.25 Walthers Code 83 #6.5 Curved LH Turnout (1)-$32.08 Two Bay GM&O WE Hopper (1) - $5.29 Sanding belts (2) - $8.54 2'x4' Hardboard Sand Ply - (2) - $17.46 2'x4' Masonite 1/8" - (1) $4.40 HO cork roadbed case (1) - $25.95 Digitrax Super Empire Builder Set (1) $274.95 1/4" 4x8 Sandply Plywood (1) - $18.99 1/8" 4x8 Masonite (1) - $6.75 Aerosol paint flat black (1) - $2.99 L&N Drop End Gondola (1) - $11.34 Southern Drop End Gondola (1) - $10.53 Car Weights Pack (2) - $9.00 1/8"x1/8" Basswood for pier (11) - $9.21 1/8" dowels for pier (25) - $9.10 Boxcar Southern 27257 (1) $8.00 Flat Southern 116056 (1) $8.00 Flat L&N 24239 (1) $8.00 Tank GATX MA 32316 (1) $8.00 Tank GATX 16101 (1) $8.00 Misc small structures (5) - $20.00 Pier Lumber bundle (1) - $12.50 Boxcar GA Railroad (1) - $8.00 Caboose Southern (1) - $8.00 Boxcar Cotton Belt (1) - $6.00 Kadee 33" Wheels (12) - $7.25
--------------------------------------------------- Project Total $1,353.23 Budget $1,500
Construction Time
Layout Design - 8 hours Operation Plan - 1 hour Shopping for Lumber - 1.5 hours Construction Bases - 3 hours Construction Bases and Sec #1 - 3 hours Base Inner Radius - .5 hours Operations Design - 2 hours Complete Section One - 1 hour Trackwork Study - 1 hour Build Section 2,3,4 - 2.5 hours Build Section 2,3,4 - 3 hours Saw Sections - 1 hour 12-13-09 Section 3 - 30 mins Shopping and structures - 1.5 hours Complete sections (Done!) - 1 hour Remove clamps and check - 30 mins 12-20-09 Purchase leg material - 40 mins 12-20-09 Leg assembly S1 - 1 hour 12-20-09 Research - 1 hour 12-21-09 Leg final assmbly - 2 hours 12-22-09 Buy foam sheets - 1 hour 12-23-09 Visit hobby shop - 1 hour 12-24-09 Visit hobby shop - 1 hour 12-25-09 Clean up shop - 2 hours 12-27-09 Trip to hobby shop 1 hour 12-27-09 Elevation Corrections on drawing - 1 hour 12-27-09 Sanding section 3 - 45 minutes 12-29-09 Sanding completed - 2 hours 12-30-09 Assemble and foam Section 3 - 4 hours 12-31-09 Clean up shop and organize 4 hours 01-01-10 Trip to Home Depot & work 1 hour 01-02-10 Foam cutting and draw track cl - 3 hours 01-08-10 Pier construction -1.5 hours 01-09-10 Pier drawings - 1 hour 01-10-10 Pier assembly - 5 hours 01-11-10 Pier assm, rolling stock work - 3 hours 01-13-10 Foam cutting - 1.5 hours 01-16-10 Working on Pier - 4 hours 01-17-10 Working on Pier - 5 hours 01-19-08 Working on Pier - 1.5 hours 01-20-10 Working on Pier - 1 hour 01-21-10 Working on Pier - 1 hour 01-22-10 Working on Pier - 30 minutes 01-23-10 Working on Pier - 2 hours 01-24-10 Working on Pier - 3 hours 01-29-10 Working on Pier - 2 hours 01-30-10 Benchwork & Rolling Stock - 3 hours 02-07-10 Benchwork Sec 4 - 2 hours ----------------------------------------------------------------- Total Hours: 92 hours
* Blog time is NOT included but taking and processing photos is included.
Tools Used
Sabre (Jig) Saw Sanding Sponges Measuring Tape Pen - Gel Marker Speed Square Extension Cord Heavy Duty Table Saw (use high quality!) Screw Gun/Drill Countersink Bit C-Clamps (8) 6" opening Digital Camera Chop (Miter) Saw 3 x 8 Work Table Hand saw Safety glasses Table Saw Push Stick Caulking Gun Gap Gauge (hand made) Bar Clamps ( I didn't have any but they would have been handy on the radius installation) Palm Sander - Electric Belt Sander Large Rasp for Foam Radius Drawing Tool (I don't have) 48" metal rule 36" metal rule 48" drywall square 16" metal rule 24" metal square rule Rolling tool tray Radius Tool (for turntable) Serrated edge knife Spackling Blade 6" (Cutting foam) Pliers Utility knife and blades Hobby Knife Old saw blade Plastic tray Metal condiment cup #8 Paint Brush Small clamps (6) Popsicle Sticks Northwest Shortline Chopper Chop Saw - Harbor Freight Scale People in HO - Measuring Curved Tip Tweezers (Sharp) Round Toothpicks
I've been a model railroader all my life and never remember not having trains. I started out with an N-scale layout when I was five, moved in to HO until I was 30, switched to S scale for another few years, then to On30, HO and then On30 again!
Exciting coverage of the On30 Okefenokee Swamp Railroad, a model train layout constructed in On30. This unusual layout is based on the prototype Hebard Cypress Company and the Waycross & Southern Railroad that occupied this large Georgia swamp in the 1920's.
You may need a new saw blade, one suited to cutting this material. No harm in checking the saw table set up for squareness.
ReplyDeleteThis blade was brand new. I think it is the fence that is giving me trouble. The saw is made of very light aluminum and has no weight for stability, which is another issue. Think I'll have a buddy of mine rip them on his 1,000 lb precision saw. Its great to have model train friends!
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